But the sand!comments: 5
Moroccans say, that of Tan-Tan Sahara begins. Indeed, the landscape becomes more and more flat and harsh. Palms, olive groves, cacti and thorny bushes replace, sand and stones. But this is not such that it Sahara imagined. There are no high dunes of golden sand or, a gray-buro, and after a few days, hundreds of kilometers of road and quite nużąco. However, we believe, the beauty of the desert is yet to come, So pedal on.
However, the only variety to the landscape are numerous nomadic fishermen on the edge of the continent, where the ocean meets the desert sands. Resident of improvised tents, old caravans, or simply commute from the nearest town, often a distance of tens of kilometers. Unfortunately not sell fish caught close to passing cyclists, week plunge Chinese soups :( We suspect, that hold their gains for the owners scattered in the desert stations serving Moroccan version of Fish&Chips, or cold fish and chips without salt, but with mustard . We like ;)
After crossing the symbolic border of Western Sahara have become a fixed part of the landscape in the military units, a number of police stations and city-spectrum, which is about. Although internationally Western Sahara is not officially recognized as part of Morocco, and the local population - Saharawi, has a strong sense of individuality, The Moroccan government has usurped the land. Strengthens his claim the region in infrastructure investments, constant presence of military and police, as well as an attempt to colonize the area by the Moroccans from the north country. It is in view of these government-built housing in the center of the city nothing. Such exemplary urban concepts in miniature. These small houses, are larger houses, villas are on the side, a mosque, is a playground, school, day room, all nice and colorful, only people do not have. We found, that Moroccans do not let themselves be tempted by the cheap life in the duty-free zone. Because what, that petrol so cheap, a town-estate such as color outside the gas station there is absolutely nothing ... just guard, who guards the utopia and everyday on and off the light in the cabins - to look for residents ... On our way we pass some of these towns. Always we look to them with the hope of finding water and something to eat. Unfortunately, This is only a lone guard and wind popping the door decaying houses.
Michelin map which deceives us promising to use almost every city two hundred kilometers. However, our disappointment is bitter when these city turns out to be only a petrol station, police station or just a ghost town. Happily, even in the long-closed gas station, there will always be a man, a sip of water poratuje, hot tea or a loaf of bread with sardines in forests. In fact, in Western Sahara are the only two large cities - Laayoune and Dakhla, separated by almost 500 km (for us this week away). The first of these is a true metropolis surrounded by sand. Full green palm, illuminated fountains at night, trendy cafeteria and foremost soldiers. It was here the first time we've seen a real PUB, liberated women seeking man in uniform, shrines, where uniforms are not necessarily looking for wife, and that's all fine guarding UN. But there is nothing to complain about, because in every cafe is WI-FI :)
A Dakhla write about how we get there :)
A little worried about the fact, that day by day the wind gaining strength. The local winter is a period in which blows harmatan - strong and cold wind pulling out of the desert clouds of dust and sand. In addition, December is the month in which it is blowing from the south, that is, we face. The day is not even pleasant, because it helps to bear 40 degree heat, but at night, when temperatures fall to 10 degrees it gets really cold, and the tent begins to resemble a kite on the sand.
It is because of the wind devote a lot of time to find a place to stay. Frequently save us appear every few kilometers mobile phone base stations, the walls, as I have heaps of rubbish odgarnąć, the only available shelter from the wind.
But sometimes in the evening, we get nowhere, rather sand. There remains nothing to us then how to build your own windshield.
Fortunately, with the wind getting stronger, there is also more and more sand dunes and getting something more "saharyjsko".
However, we still have 600 km, or the following week against the wind and sand. Stas decided to speed up the passage and getting the bus to Dakhla. We hang bikes close 20 liters of water, and we hope to get there in a few days. So keep your fingers crossed, what would wind wanted us in the back end zawiać :)