Windy Mauritania

Windy Mauritania

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If someone really wants to go to Mauritania, my advice is to look before you go about the country. What you will find are messages that the Foreign Ministry reviving trip due to the unstable political situation, information on the number of kidnappings of tourists and mines scattered in the desert, travelers complain of pervasive police corruption and circuses at the border. We unfortunately have made this mistake, that poszperaliśmy the Internet and approaching the border of the country had, let's say,, some concerns .... Meanwhile, our trip to Mauritania is slowly coming to an end and our experience could not be better. But on the other hand.

Crossing the border Moroccan - Moorish definitely not different from those of other border crossing. A little bit of standing, some running, stamp and forward. A curiosity but a strip of no man's land between the borders of the two countries. Three kilometers of sand, without any expensive, for a bed of mines and zdezelowanymi cars, tires, refrigerators, plastic bags and other paskudztwami. Until shiver passed at the thought of crossing.

But if you are reading this message it means, that we do not fly in the air and came to the border of Mauritania ;) There we were greeted by a very handsome men in fantastic uniforms, tightly wrapped turbans and of course the glasses a la American Marines. After a quick exchange of pleasantries brought a German Shepherd and told me to open the luggage. For half an hour flipped us in search of Moroccan hashish and alcohol. Mauritania is an Islamic republic and the consumption of alcohol is forbidden under threat of fines, and even prison. As I finally let us into their country breathed a sigh of relief. Too fast .... As soon as we left the station unleashed a real sandstorm. Immediately it became white from airborne dust. And again the wind! Sand poured us in the face with such force, that leave small sores on the skin. Driving has become absolutely impossible. Hid behind a bush, but a few hours later, little has changed. The Noadhibou had only 40 km, However, in these conditions, getting there would take us eight hours! Not really had any other way, decided to push the bike with the hope of some change. And rightly so. After about an hour we reached the junction, and there's a powerful turn to the right, or tailwind. We have been saved ;)




According to our guide in Mauritania are two large cities. One of them is Noadhibou which is wjeżdżaliśmy. Hmm ... did not look impressive. Cardboard sheet metal houses, goats on the street, everywhere dilapidated cars and sand roads zasypujący (pavement has long thwarted).


Nothing is! We need cash, a bit of a wash and eat something other than soup Chinese who accompanied us during the day over a two-week crossing of the desert (other dishes require a lot of water for cooking and washing). Meanwhile, the city is only one bank that accepts vise (master card does not accept any) and both its ATMs do not work (when they act? soon, maybe tonight, maybe tomorrow, inszallah), After a brief reconnaissance turns out to be also, that the city "mastered" so they are mainly Chinese restaurants with Chinese food (niiiie!). Broken French translate the Lord for camping, we do not have the money, but we have inszallach evening, or tomorrow, then we will pay, and once again we eat soup Chinese :)

Morning, rested we head back to town. This time, luck smiled on us. Cashier managed to find a few bends to the right and some to the left, and we found a little back street of the same restaurants, and there's food to choose the color, and each dish for less than 3 Gold. I bakery on every corner, and in the baguette, buttery scones and other wonders pofrancuskie . Well, that's when we would like to Mauritania :)


After nearly a week vacation, with full bellies and laundered clothes, the time has come to face the last 500 kilometers across the Sahara. We expected, that they will be little different from those, that drove so far in Western Sahara. Meanwhile, outside the scream, and herds of camels everything was different. First of all, the first day turned out to be, so beloved by our camp "in the wild" in Mauritania is not an option. After driving distance daily as usual we started looking for a place to stay. Flat, desert landscape did not give us too many opportunities, but find themselves a larger dune with the kind of bush and took up a tent spacing. In less than half an hour as our hideout military drove the car. Got out some serious visitors and quite nervously tried to explain to us, that we need to roll up and go with them. Needless to say How we Furious! I started to make dinner! The bikes in the back of an old Toyota to a nearby police station arrived at the military police. Full, already slightly better, explained to us, to our security that we have to sleep here.


At dawn, we thank our host for the hospitality and move on. Wind, of course, blowing in our face so the ride is sooooo tedious. For this sand buries his way through what we're going almost the middle and passing cars pass us literally almost. As you can see the approaching truck, usually rushing around 120 per hour, quickly resorted to the side, otherwise spammed us sand from the wheels of the vehicle or overturn our wind power.


Taught by experience last night at the end of the day looking for accommodation in one of the numerous taverns. In Mauritania, they are mainly large, Shared tents where all the guests sleep on mats on the floor. The inn of this type there is no electricity, toilets and showers, but it is a safe haven from the wind and it suffices us.


About 19, just after sunset, it gets completely dark so I left with nothing but slowly getting ready for bed (!). Rinsed in water wiadereczku to pack sleeping bags and surprise surprise .... We have visitors. Our colleagues cops, worried by the fact, that did not make it to the next station again we have to look forward to L Kind, so to take, I feel safer thanks, but you can not hide, it is also a bit of teasing us. Our daily distances we have to adjust the distance between checkpoints, and we have a limited choice of accommodation to the gendarmerie or the inn of their choice. You even more zealous at 12 at noon they can persuade us that we have been with them for the night, because she about to get dark, and we do not manage to get to the next station. Unfortunately, sometimes they are right. The wind is so strong that the output of the inn is just madness. The whole village sits tightly locked up in their homes and wait for better weather, and we along with them. Fortunately, Emma met again so the three of us in this bondage briskly ;)


Baby steps, after a week of struggle with the wind, sand and the military police arrived at the end of the Nouakchott. And there visa formalities and open the way to Senegal :)